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 Baja
Overview
Related Links: East
Cape, Pacific
Coast, Baja
Report
Mike Godsey has compiled a very accurate and detailed
Baja Guide which can be found on the iwindsurf
website. If you are heading down, give it a read
as well.
Mexico is a foreign country. Please respect the
land and its people, and be sure to have the necessary
documentation, preparations and attitude for traveling there.
Baja, Mexico. You’ve heard the stories and
seen the pictures. It is a truly remarkable place. The
diversity of the peninsula leaves no shortage of
things to do, only a shortage of time to do them in.
There is a regular contingent that head south each
year, some of them for months at a time. Since this is
a windsurfing site, discussion will be centered around
windsurfing, though that is certainly NOT all there is
to do in Baja. There is a tremendous amount of
information on Baja available in books and magazines,
but as with many things the internet is the easiest
and fastest way to access it. That said, here is a
rudimentary overview of Baja, what to know, where to
go and when, and a few tips to keep you your trip muy
bien.
Baja is a popular destination for many reasons,
but its size and diversity of attractions spread out
the crowds providing solitude for anyone willing to go
looking for it. The scenery of the peninsula is simply
breathtaking. Several
different climates are found along its 1,100 mile
length, deserts to tropical, mountains to beaches. The
seasons follow those of the mainland United States,
only warmer. East
cape: The Sea of Cortez
The Sea of Cortez is affected by local and El Norte
winds more than ocean swells from the South, though south swells can
travel up the sea providing rare but good surfing. El
Norte winds produce rolling swells up to mast high in the windy
winter season, making on-shore to side shore sailing
conditions that are steadily gaining notoriety. The water is
comparatively warm all year, with a 3/2 full suit
being the warmest suit most people need for
windsurfing.
Late fall and winter is the prime time for windsurfing on
the Sea of Cortez. The return of the El Norte wind is usually
in October sometime, and brings with it cooler nights and
blows away the
dreaded BoBos, a no-see-um type mosquito of Mexican
origin that can make life without screens tough on
campers. Regular, consistent, and strong
winds blow down the length of the sea beginning in
Novermber, hot spots being
Los Barriles and more recently La
Ventana. These are
the most popular and offer most amenities but are certainly not the only places to
sail. There is a real community in the
campgrounds at these spots with people returning year
after year to the same place. As spring rolls around
the sailing can still be really good and less crowded
though less consistent.
Pacific
Side (western coastline)
Pacific ocean swells roll in year round, but
the best and most consistent action is from long
period south swells in the summer and fall. Large north and west swells
of spring, fall
and winter will hit the coastline as well, though many
of the bet break are south facing, particularly in
southern Baja. The more northerly the swell, the larger
it needs to be to get all the way down the peninsula, so research your destination
to see if it works with the swells of the season.
There is wind along the pacific coast year round, the
best seasons being spring, summer and into fall. The
southern coast can have great wave sailing on the same
days that the Sea of Cortez is dead, so a little luck
and extra driving can keep you in the water most days.
By now everyone has heard of Punta San Carlos.
Regular side-offshore winds and a long forgiving wave
has made the place a legend. Less primitive than it
used to be, it is still very popular with windsurfers
from spring through fall every year. While the days
(when sunny) are usually warm, the nights are cool to
downright cold, so pack accordingly.
THINGS TO KNOW
Currency: The “Peso” is the Mexican currency, and
for some time now the conversion to US Dollars has
been around 2-1, making on the spot conversions
simple. American dollars are accepted everywhere,
though you won't do as well on the exchange rate in a
small town as you will in a bank. Once away form the main tourist areas (like
Cabo san Lucas and Tijuana) prices are very low for
goods and services. And a big smile is usually thrown
in for free.
Local Customs: Mexico is not America. It is a different
country and culture, and that very fact is part of why
it is embraced so fondly. Mexicans are for the most
part incredibly kind, helpful
and even more resourceful. There are rotten apples in
any barrel, but most people tend to ignore the
“horror stories’ that float around and speak only
of good times.
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Driving: Driving in Mexico is different. For starters, the road
(Mex
1) is
only 18 feet wide while 2 lane roads in the US are 22
feet. And there is rarely a shoulder, rather 10 inches
of pavement and a steep embankment. And there are the
“Topes”. Topes are speed bumps placed at the ends
of almost every town for speed control and to help
out the local automotive service economy. Sometimes there are 3
or 4 of them and are often unmarked so be VERY
cautious when approaching and departing from towns.
Topes can and have severely damaged vehicles and
trailers when hit at too high a speed. A bigger
vehicle does not exclude you from this. There are
reports of whole axles coming off so treat them with
respect and cross over them at a snails pace. Plus, you’re on vacation.
Driving in Mexico is safe if you heed a few warnings
and take it slowly. The drive is beautiful. Entire
valleys of cactus forests, rugged mountain ranges,
agricultural pastures, empty deserts and breathtaking
ocean views are all part of the experience. Mexico 1
runs the length of the Baja peninsula. It is paved and
usually in good enough shape for passenger cars to
travel safely. During hurricane season sections of the
road can wash out or become extremely potholed.
“Vados” can be the size of a cubicle, so approach
them carefully and slowly. There are not a whole lot
of bridges on Mexico 1. Instead the road is built across
the floor of arroyos, seasonal riverbeds that carry
excess runoff. During rains the water is often deep
and powerful enough to wash cars off the roadway and
severely damage the road surface. If you must cross a flooded
arroyo, don’t be the first, and GO SLOWLY. It is
best to let someone else be the guinea pig, and if
they make it then think about giving it a go. Of
course, if they went through in a F350 4x4 with huge
tires and a winch you may want to wait a while longer.
Speaking of waiting, things in Mexico happen slowly.
If you do get pulled over, it will take 45 minutes to
2 hours to clear things up. That is just the way it
is. If
you happen along a stretch of impassable road, be
prepared with water, food and a cribbage
board to wait it out a while.
Sometimes the closure is measured in days, not
hours as much of the roadwork is done by hand and
shovel.
Along Mexico 1 there are military checkpoints stationed
every few hundred miles or so. Expect to see between 4 and 7 of them between
Tijuana and Cabo. The checkpoints are stationed mostly
with young men stuck in the middle of nowhere
wearing heavy, starched uniforms. Be honest and
courteous and you should pass with no problems. They
will want to look in your vehicle, and you must let
them, but rarely does a full search take place. Some
travelers with dogs avoid the searches, but dogs can
also have the opposite affect, so use your judgment.
It is still true that a box of old magazines inside
the back door of your van can expedite your time at a checkpoint.
If you get off the main road it will be dirt, sand,
stone, clay, mud, or any combination thereof. Rain
makes driving off road hazardous to you and your
vehicle. Muddy, slippery and impassible roads, bogs,
puddles and moving water should all be waited out.
Give it time and it will dry up and you can move on.
Often there is more than one route to your
destination. This is because when one route becomes
too tough, another is created. Follow someone who
knows or look for the freshest tracks and most recent
signs of traffic and you’ll get there eventually,
since there just aren’t enough towns and camps for you to end up at the wrong place.
There are a few general rules for
driving in Baja, the following are a few of them.
1. Do not drive at night. This is the
most important one as Mex 1 has little in
common with its' US counterpart, Hwy 1. The road is usually in pretty good shape
with intermittent rough sections that are rarely
marked. Livestock are everywhere and the whole
peninsula seems to be an open range with cattle sleeping
on the warm blacktop at night. The truckers
tend to drive with their headlights
off at night. The reasons for this are for their
benefit, not ours.
2. Do not
test rule number one.
3. Drive slowly.
3. Caravan with other vehicles and
use CB radio if possible. If you have a vehicle problem, a second
or third vehicle and it's occupants can be a real
help. If you do break down the Mexicans are usually
eager to help you out and are in credibly creative at
fixing things. All for a price so low that your
mechanic would cringe.
4. Leave early
so if there is a problem there is time and daylight to
deal with it.
5. Carry spares. If you break
down you might be on your own. There are the “Green
Angels” that patrol the highway but their knowledge
is limited and they are not a traveling auto parts
store.
6. Don't camp on the side of the road as there are the very rare
“banditos” who can make life interesting if you
choose to do so. Plus, most of our mothers have already covered this one, and
they were right. Find a campground for the night. If
that doesn’t work for you, ask local businesses or
residents if you can park on their property under
lights, or in front of their house. Many will oblige you of this for a small fee.
7. Fill up as often as possible. Along some stretches
of Mexico 1 gas stations can be as much as 150 miles
apart. The stations
don’t always have gas, so get it when you can. If
you are in an area that has no gas there is usually a
rancher or townsperson who has some for sale at
a slightly inflated price.
TIP: Many gas stations
are full service in Mexico. A once common scam was
to not zero the pump after a fill up, so you wind up paying for gas you didn’t get. Have a
locking gas cap and watch the guy pumping. Maybe even
learn some Spanish. There are also kids competing to
clean your windows, and if you let them they will
expect a few pesettas.
TIPS
You are a guest in a foreign country, and
should act accordingly. Some have said to ”keep your
eyes open, mouth shut and your hands in your pockets
and you’ll be fine”. True, but not very
experiential. Most travelers find nothing but helpful,
kind and polite people in their travels down south, so
a combination of "When in Rome ......"
and "The Golden Rule" usually keeps
everything as it should be.
If possible, hit the border at about 5:40am with Pesos
and all your papers and Mexican driving insurance
taken care of. The border guard rotates shifts at 6am
so if you get there at the end of their shift they are
less likely to hassle you as they just want to go
home. The paperwork and currency exchanges can soak up
lots of time so do it all in the U.S. If that isn't
possible drive through Tijuana and do it in Ensenada.
OTHER THINGS TO DO
What to do depends on where you are and what
you enjoy, but chances are you can do it in Baja. The
peninsula is host to world class attractions of every
type except snow sports, though it does snow there.
Windsurfing, surfing, fishing, kayaking, cycling,
hiking, camping, exploring, four-wheeling, boating,
relaxing; it’s all there. There are books and
articles that highlight the more popular places and
attractions but there is adventure at every turn, and
most of the peninsula is un-crowded and accessible
without four-wheel-drive.
OTHER RESOURCES
Just the word “baja” typed
into a search engine will give you lots of places to
get your research started. There are lots of books and
a huge number of websites dedicated to travel in Baja,
so dig in and get yourself started. This is just a
preliminary guide. There is much more to learn about
Baja and about traveling there so go get started
planning out your trip.
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